What to Cook This Weekend


Good morning. “I don’t question that the greatest meal salad of all time, the chef salad, was created by a chef,” Gabrielle Hamilton wrote for The New York Times Magazine this week. “The combination of textures and flavors is consummately professional. Sometimes people mistake the salad bowl for a lawless place of disorganized and mismatched ingredients, chopped up and thrown in — dried cranberries on top of pumpkin seeds on top of soggy corn — which offends even me, who stakes no strong claim to her chef bona fides. A salad nonetheless requires a bit of cheffing, a little experienced attention paid to balance, texture and restraint. Not everything tastes better with bacon bits scattered on top.”

Accompanying the article is her recipe for a sous-chef salad (above), a take on a classic French salade composée, with ingredients both cooked and raw. It’s like a steroidal niçoise, and I think it ought to be your dinner on Saturday night.

At least if you eat tuna, that is. Those looking for a vegetarian meal might turn instead to this cold tofu salad with tomatoes, peaches, basil and mint

, inspired by Italian caprese and Japanese hiyayakko, and my new favorite way to consume uncooked, chilled silken tofu. Or try this Indonesian tempe penyet, pan-fried smashed tempeh soaked with a garlicky tomato, shallot and chile sambal. Oh, my!


Other things to cook this weekend: a Roman breakfast cake for Sunday when you arise, to consume with cold-brewed ice coffee and milk; pan con tomate for lunch; a coconut-miso salmon curry for dinner.

Now, you’d have to travel a long way over rough terrain to make it anything to do with food, but I think you may enjoy Wyatt Mason on the Norwegian writer Jon Fosse, in Harper’s Magazine.

Here’s Jason Guriel on browsing and the pleasures of life outside the algorithm, in The Walrus.

For Outside, Tim Neville wrote a lovely appreciation of the Delmarva Peninsula, which among other things is filled with great place names: Wetipquin, Tony Tank, Pocomoke, Bivalve.

Finally, here’s Doja Cat and the Weeknd, “You Right.” That and a chef salad? Have a great weekend. I’ll see you on Sunday.


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