Seeing 2021 Out With a Pop, a Pour and a Fizz

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Some producers, departing from years of conventional wisdom that Champagne must be a consistent style blended from many terroirs, are making single-vineyard Champagnes. Many, in an effort to reduce the perception of sweetness in their wines have, for better or worse, explored the extra-brut style of Champagne. Sometimes, you just want a rosé Champagne, and sometimes you want a general list of names and terms to know when shopping.

Here are the 12 bottles, from least to most expensive within each category.

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Le Vigne di Alice Veneto Tajad Frizzante NV $19

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Cinzia Canzian makes this wine as a homage to her grandmother, who, in the days before the glera grape came to dominate Prosecco production, used to blend glera with two other local varieties, boschera (better known by its synonym verdicchio) and verdiso. The wine is dry and flowery, lively and charming. The second, bubble-inducing fermentation occurs in big tanks, as with most Proseccos, but Tajad is far better than any standard-issue bottle. (Portovino, Buffalo, N.Y.)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Raventós i Blanc Conca del Riu Anoia de Nit 2018 $22

Good cava is one of the best deals in sparkling wine. The problem is that a lot more bad cava is made than good. But I’ve been collecting the names of producers to seek out, including Recaredo, Gramona, AT Roca, Mestres, Bohigas, Loxarel, Castellroig, Parés Baltà and Raventós i Blanc, which produces de Nit, a bottle I keep returning to because it’s excellent and a great value. Like many of these I’ve listed, Raventós i Blanc no longer uses the term “cava” in order to avoid its poor connotations. Instead, it uses Conca del Riu Anoia, after a small area in the Penedès, where it has a biodynamically farmed estate. This rosado is made of the three traditional cava grapes, parellada, xarello and macabeu, along with monastrell, or mourvèdre, which accounts for the wine’s pale pink color. It’s dry, nuanced, tangy and delicious. (Skurnik Wines, New York)

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Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Domaine Dupasquier Savoie Perles d’Aimavigne Blanc de Blancs NV $23

I’ve found so much to love about wines from the Savoie region in eastern France. The latest is this sparkling wine, made largely of jacquère and chardonnay, with a little altesse as well. It’s bone-dry and lacy-fine, with lightly creamy flavors. The brother-sister team of David and Véronique Dupasquier is the fifth generation of the family to oversee this domaine, which also makes terrific still wines. Fortuitously, as Wink Lorch points out in her excellent book “Wines of the French Alps,” Aimavigne, the town where the estate is based, means “love the vine.” (Selection Massale, Carmel Valley, Calif.)

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